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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 9:04 am 
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Brown Trout
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:56 pm
Posts: 1270
Location: Dallas, NC
That rig is a $1600 plus anywhere in the country. If someone gets the John boat and trailer for 600 it still a steal.
Aaron maybe we can take it to the lake next weekend depending on our schedule to see how it does. We can get it started at my place then do the short drive to MIL.

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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 3:16 pm 
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Brown Trout

Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:42 am
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Location: Charlotte
Fernando, that sounds good. Let me know your schedule.


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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 5:55 pm 
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Brown Trout
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:56 pm
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Location: Dallas, NC
Not sure about Saturday just yet but I know I am open Friday until 2pm (im sure you work but just in case). I can let you know better by Thursday. Sunday I will be visiting one of my coworkers in moss lake. We might get to do so fishing is the boss ladies allow us to!!! :D

_________________
A boy mayfly saying to a girl mayfly, "What do you mean, Not Tonight!?"
John Gierach - Sex, Death, And FlyFishing.
Image
Can I be the "Frigging Puerto Rican" here?!


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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:23 pm 
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Brown Trout

Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:42 am
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Location: Charlotte
La_Trucha wrote:
Not sure about Saturday just yet but I know I am open Friday until 2pm (im sure you work but just in case). I can let you know better by Thursday. Sunday I will be visiting one of my coworkers in moss lake. We might get to do so fishing is the boss ladies allow us to!!! :D


Moss Lake is a good one. I need to work Friday, but appreciate the offer. Looking forward to catching up soon.


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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 9:28 pm 
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Brown Trout

Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:42 am
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Location: Charlotte
Fernando has a borderline freakish ability to fix engines - ATVs, boats, it doesn't matter, he can fix it. He's amphibious.


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 Post subject: Re: Any good leads on boat engines?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Brown Trout
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Location: Dallas, NC
As long as I am not ambiguous im fine!!! Lol!
Since we got the lower unit seal thing figured out you might not need a seal after all, you will have to use the motor and monitor your gear oil quality and see if it start changing color and find water in it then we can worry about seals. I have a feeling that you might not have a problem anymore.
The issue with the carb possibly starving could be solved with a hose clamp where the previous owner (or whoever it was) used a zip tie. Then see if that improves or fix your problem. Then we can take it from there.

I know we have the right serial but I am not sure I was able to get the correct information for your motor so this is mostly to give you an idea on your motor and what might cost you to get the new parts you might need. You will have to go to BassPro or somewhere else that they work on mercury motors to get any parts you need....

I believe your motor is a Mercury Model 200, 20hp built in 1977 according to the serial number and the research I have done. However, depending on where you go the serial falls between the 1977 and 1978, so... it is freaking confusing.... You can look for parts on this website:

http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/ ... _20/+75538

The only part I think you really need at this time is the stop switch. I dont think choking the motor is the best way to stop it.

COVER ASSEMBLY, STOP SWITCH -MANUAL (69509A1 original part #) 87-99525A-1 COVER ASSY (MERCURY) $11.21 1

The reverse lock lever will be handy if you use the reverse going a bit more that idle speed. Unfortunately it seems mercury don't make those anymore so you will have to look in a marine junk yard. There are many online.
61012 LEVER, REVERSE LOCK (broke hooks to keep motor down when in reverse)

This is the lower unit big round nut that was all hammered up. Since we now know it dont hold the seal I think it is fine not to order one but if you needed to order it then you would have to go to a junk yard too. Seems mercury dont make it anymore either.
72710 COVER, GEAR HOUSING

This is the o ring that was in the wrong place. It was nicked a little but I think it will hold. Good news is that if you need it mercury does still make it.
33465 "O" RING, BEARING CARRIER $2.58

This is the gasket for the lower unit screw that plugs the bottom grease filler hole. They still make it, they have the original and aftermarket part. You will need this for every year when you change the grease or if we find it is leaking there.
20260 WASHER, GREASE FILLER SCREW 12-19183-3 EA.SEAL-BLUE (MERCURY) $0.71 OR SIE18-2945 GASKET, DRAIN SCREW (SIERRA) $1.29

This is the other gasket for the lower unit grease. This is the one for the top that you have to pull out to create a vent hole to help the grease drip out faster. You have the original and aftermarket to choose from. You will change this at the same rate as the previous gasket.
20262 WASHER, GREASE VENT SCREW 19643 SEAL (MERCURY) $0.60 or SIE18-4261 WASHER (SIERRA) $2.29

This is also a lower unit part, remember I told you the motor had a trim tab missing? This is the part but it don't have a tab on it like it does in my 50 hp, it is flat but helps keeping the anodization off the motor parts.
47820A1 PLATE ASSEMBLY, ANODIC-GEAR HOUSING $28.16

This you might not need to change until you change the impeller. Yours seems a bit worn out but mercury dont see it anymore...
48754 INSERT, WATER PUMP BODY

Water pump impeller, change every other year. I would not change yours this year, it looks fairly new but would definitely next year. This is the new part.
65958 IMPELLER WATER PUMP-PART OF DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY SIE18-3052 IMPELLER (SIERRA) $14.87

I dont see a kit for the fuel pump in case your fuel starvation issue IS the fuel pump but the Mercury dealer will probably have a source for it same thing for a carburetor kit.
Lastly, I dont see any way to tight the housing gear to make it tighter when turning directions with the motor. To me it felt a bit too easy (even loose) and would like for it to be tighter but it could be that it's been years since I used a tiller motor.

Remember, those above parts numbers are what I believe to be correct but I will strongly recommend you check with mercury first. The names will probably be the same but the part numbers could be different as well as the prices.

That motor looks incredible to be almost 40 years old. We need to get the compression figures next time but it had a lot of push, I even felt a bit of cavitation when we hit it WOT for the first time.

Enjoy.

_________________
A boy mayfly saying to a girl mayfly, "What do you mean, Not Tonight!?"
John Gierach - Sex, Death, And FlyFishing.
Image
Can I be the "Frigging Puerto Rican" here?!


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